Low-E glass windows carry a microscopically thin metallic-oxide coating that reflects heat back to the side it came from while letting visible light through. In a Cape Cod winter that means less heat escaping the room. Hard-coat (pyrolytic) low-E is durable and lets more solar heat in; soft-coat (sputtered silver) insulates better. We fabricate and install replacement insulated units in your existing sashes.
You can now request pricing and availability directly from us—just let us know what you need, and we’ll take care of the rest.
Spec | Options |
|---|---|
Thickness | Single lites 3/32in (2.4mm) single strength, 1/8in (3mm) double strength, 3/16in (5mm), 1/4in (6mm). Standard residential insulated unit overall 5/8in (16mm) or 1in (25mm) |
Glass type | Annealed clear, tempered, laminated, hard-coat low-E, single/double/triple-silver soft-coat low-E, obscure/patterned, tinted |
Maximum span | Governed by the sash and the glazing pocket, not by us. Larger and taller lites usually step up from 1/8in (3mm) to 3/16in (5mm) or 1/4in (6mm), and oversized units may need tempering for wind load. We size it off the actual measured opening |
Edge profile | Not applicable to glazed units — the edges are hidden in the sash. Sealed-unit perimeter is a dual-seal (primary polyisobutylene, secondary silicone or polysulphide) with a spacer bar |
Hardware finish | Supplied by the window manufacturer, not the glazier, on IGU replacement. On new full-frame work, finishes follow the frame line you select |
Coating surface placement | Surfaces are numbered 1 to 4 from the outside in. In a heating-dominated climate like Cape Cod the low-E coating normally goes on surface #2 (inside face of the outer lite) to hold indoor heat in. Surface #3 placement (inside face of the inner lite) is a cooling-climate strategy that raises solar gain — occasionally useful on a north wall or a sunroom you want to warm |
Cavity fill | Dry air, or argon for a measurable improvement in U-factor. Krypton is used in narrow cavities where argon has no room to work — it costs more and is rarely justified on standard residential units |
Spacer | Conventional aluminum, or a warm-edge spacer (stainless, structural foam, or a thermoplastic). Warm-edge lowers heat loss at the perimeter and raises the condensation resistance number, which matters on cold Cape Cod nights |
Performance rating source | The NFRC label on the specific unit. Every number below is a typical range, not a spec sheet |
Obscure / privacy options | Satin/acid-etched, Rain, Glue Chip, Delta Frost and similar patterns, in an insulated unit where required |
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Start with the opening, not the catalogue. If the window is heated living space and it faces north, east or west, a single-silver soft-coat low-E unit with argon and a warm-edge spacer is the default and will do the most for your heating bill.
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If it is a big south-facing wall or a sunroom you want the winter sun to warm, hard-coat or a lower-silver-count soft-coat keeps more of that free solar gain, and you should resist the instinct that a lower SHGC is automatically better in a heating-dominated climate.
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If the glass is foggy between the panes, the sash is sound and the frame is square, you almost certainly need a replacement insulated unit rather than a new window. And if the opening is a door, a sidelite, a low sill or anywhere near a walking surface, plan on tempered – IBC/IRC safety glazing requirements govern those locations and your Cape Cod building official makes the final call.
We’re more than just a supplier—we design, fabricate, and install a full range of custom glass solutions.
You can now request pricing and availability directly from us—just let us know what you need, and we’ll take care of the rest.
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